Recently, I had my first ever annual leave. I spent the entire week in my home... sewing. It was a delight. I commenced two dressed (already blogged and now completed), but these pjs were the only project to be completed during the week. They made it out alive and in one piece!
Introducing.... this gorgeous and playful 1960s reproduction pattern from Burda. I made a sleeveless View C (bias finished armholes), and the bloomers from View D. Before commencing the cutting out and sewing, I sketched how I wanted it to look. Sketching is something I am doing more of now, helps keep my sewing plans in line.
The ruffle was a real doozy for me. Simple enough, but I think I completed it in many more steps than necessary. There is the actual pyjama top, then the ruffle, then bias which is stitched down under the ruffle (i.e.: holding the ruffle out of the way). Then the ruffle was all-sticky-up and awkward. So I top stitched it down. Much happier. Honestly, it took me too long to get a completed ruffle.
I'm not sure if I would ever make this pattern again. It's fast and simple, but how many pairs of pjs do I need? I would maybe consider the full length version as more of a robe type affair. But eh, there are so many other delightful things I could make.
Burda is an interesting beast. They certainly assume you know how to do things. They assume you know conventions about finishing and trimming seams, or how to make a casing, or how to understand their brief instructions. I use their instructions like a guide, but it usually follows the same sort of order. Stay stitch if needed - darts - bindings - decorative things like ruffles/pockets/zips - side seams - hems and finishing. If you know the standard order of construction everything will be fine. If you need more help than that while sewing, then go with Vogue, Butterick or Simplicity.
The bloomers are totally adorable. I used lingerie elastic that I had in my stash so... free! The elastic is tight enough that I don't have gravity issues... and loose enough for nighttime comfort. They are also a great little stash busting boxer short pattern. Adorable and a breeze to make!
As always, the labels from Dutch Label Shop make everything look complete and finished.
Pj's: Burda 7109
Messy room: Courtesy of busy work and full weekends
Something strange happened with this dress. Something for good!
When it was started, I didn't really care about the finish of it. All I wanted was a new summer frock that fitted and had a cute 1950s sundress vibe.
After hand picking the zip in only the white gingham squares I started to care about the details. The finish. The inside. The seam allowance treatment. I didn't want any visible top stitching. I didn't want to take the sewing machine route to a quickly finished piece. I took time and care in lining up the gingham so the horizontal lines ran uninterrupted around the dress. The waist seam was lined up to the best of my ability.
It paid off.
Now I have a wonderful little retro sundress which fits, has a lined bodice, contrast pockets, and ric rac trim! Seriously, look at that trim.
I wanted this dress to look like a 50s sundress, to wear on sunny days or at picnics. What better way to achieve that than... ric rac! The ric rac covers the 2" deep hem stitch line. So much love. This was my first time ever using a decorative trim. I usually prefer to leave the garment plain. But there is something that trim does to an outfit. Makes it look more authentic and finished.
The back bodice looks different to the usual Butterick 5748 since I changed the location of the zipper. It's easier to get into and I find it more comfortable with the back zip anyway. I don't mind that the sleekness of the original pattern has been lost. In the photo below I was chatting to my neighbour.
The pattern is the lined bodice of Butterick 5748, size 12. That's where following the pattern ended. The bodice is lined like the pattern, but not the skirt. I used Hong Kong seam finishes for the skirt seams. To me, doing a full lining in a summer dress is just silly.
Side zip changed to back zip, 16" zip - love it
Circle skirt changed to gathered skirt
In seam pockets added to both sides
The dress had a first time outing to a lovely lunch for Dad's birthday. We were in the city all day so I took a cardi with me in case. The dress was comfortable and breezy. I absolutely love it.
Dress: Butterick 5748 (modified)
Shoes: Charlie Stone Shoes
Cardigan: Cotton On from years ago
It's the second Tuesday of November which is Melbourne Cup day here in Australia. As far as I know, a bunch of horses are forced to race for the enjoyment and financial loss of the nation.
I do not condone casual horse torture - there's plenty of info and stats out there about the treatment of race horses. I don't participate in sweeps or gambling, I don't often watch the race.
But I will take any excuse to wear a hat.
Melbourne Cup has turned into a hat wearing day, and a chance to over dress. Where anyone can wear a hat and no one looks twice. This is the first year that I've been able to frock up and hat up. As a dancer teacher, it's hard to wear a hat while working. No fancy hats go with dance pants and a sweaty work top. But now with my office job... I can frock up all the time!
My Melbourne Cup outfit this year is 60s inspired. My saucer hat is from Etsy, New Look 6000 dress made from a ponte knit which has never let me down. The vintage 60s glo-mesh handbag is from a gorgeous vintage store in the Dandenong Ranges. It's in brand new condition. Very happy M!
Seriously, look at this hat! It's pretty gorgeous. We were told to wear a crazy hat. This hat is crazy to me. Sticking a saucer on your head is fairly mad. But it's still pretty! It's a beige/crème colour. It's got a couple of marks, but that builds character.
Hat: Ehranjadevintage on Etsy here
Dress: Made by me, New Look 6000 (my tried and true pattern)
Seams and underthings: What Katie Did
Shoes: Sheriton Shoes (Inniu)
My cousin got married on a beautiful Sunday afternoon in the Dandenong Ranges, VIC. It was a really lovely day (weather wise and event wise). The sun was shining, there was no rain, and it was a beautiful ceremony.
Of course, I had to make a new outfit for the occasion. I sewed this whole outfit out in 1.5 weeks of evening sewing and cutting. I actually made the capelet in two evenings - cutting out included. It was pretty stressful and I finished the night before our flight to Melbourne.
The dress is New Look 6000. What can't this pattern do!? I have made this dress 5 times now. Perhaps that is enough? Nah, probably not...
The pictures below are mostly of the zip process. Lapped zippers look so lovely, but this sure isn't my best one. It was messy and uneven. It was rushed. I regret it. But at least is on my back where I can't see it.
This upholstery brocade fabric frayed as soon as you look at it. The very first thing to do was edge stitch every single piece. Over all the sides. That was tedious! Even the facings had to be done. I usually do my edge stitching in a different colour. Mostly to use up old thread from previous projects.
(I went for the green zip)
This is before the facings and hem were done. It has such a lovely shape. This is the size 12.
Now the little capelet. I used the Butterick 5032 pattern (I think it is out of print?). I have previously made the dress from that pattern and was uninspired by it. Perhaps a poor fabric choice, but the dress pattern is really short waisted.
I made the 12 in the capelet and I LOVE IT! The picture below is just after I had finished attaching the lining. It hadn't been understitched yet, I just couldn't wait to turn it though and see what was happening. It wasn't pressed, it was just thrown onto the body form and I went to bed.
And the finished cape! Check out that gorgeous self covered button. It's the first one I ever made. And boy, it won't be my last. I'm not trying to be humble or anything, but that pattern matching over the front of the cape is an absolute fluke. I should rush through projects more often! The collar sits really nicely, the button is fantastic. The capelet is fastened with a very large press stud underneath the button. It's a super cute finish.
My lovely is wearing a vintage suit that he purchased while we were in Dallas, Texas. It's a really great suit for a spring wedding. Perfect. His shoes are awesome - can't remember where they are from though...
It was a lovely wedding, and a successful outfit. Hooray!
Vintage suit: Dallas, Texas
Tie: Vinnies NSW
Barely seen pocket square (actually a bow tie in matching fabric): made by me
Shoes: can't remember
Capelet: Butterick 5032 (size 12)
Dress: New Look 6000 (size 12)
Stockings and underthings: What Katie Did
Shoes: Django and Juliette
Look at that collar!
I spent a lot of time making sure it was even and pressed and flat and gorgeous and... it is! Very happy M. To make it so lovely and flat, I followed Gertie's collar tutorial for this pattern here. I shall use that tutorial for any collar that needs to be attached in a similar way.
The collar is made in the same fabric as the dress. Mostly because I wanted to be able to rock a cute cardi with the dress. I didn't put the buttons down the front of the dress for the same reason. I really like it. The cardigan is my wine Hetty (by Andi Satterlund). It was a nightmare to make, but it's great with the solid sleeves.
I decided the follow the pattern instructions to insert the zipper. Regret. I should have done my usual centred zip method (machine baste the seam, pin the zip, hand baste, then machine stitch, then unpick the basting stitches). The pattern says press under the seam allowance then line up the zip and the pressed edge. WHAT A PAIN! So much regret. It ended up being so messy that I hand picked the zipper. I'm really happy with how neat the zip is after controlling it with the hand sewing, but it was tedious. Especially when I ignored my better judgement.
This is my third version of 1609 and I think I might be done with it now. I would only make it again if I had small yardage of wool, as it would be a good little winter dress.
Please excuse the horribly wrinkly-ness. These photos were taken after a full day of work.
Cardigan: Hetty (pattern by Andi Satterlund)
Dress: Simplicity 1609.
Tights: Heattech by Uniqlo
Knitter. Home seamstress. Dance Teacher.