Hello hello you beautiful 1940s reproduction pattern. What a delight you are!
Welcome to my wardrobe, Simplicity 8736. It is a 1940s blouse with bishop sleeves into a cuff, button back, gathered front shoulders and gathered sleeve heads. I made self-covered buttons for the back and sleeves. They are small and flat so I cannot feel them when I am leaning against something.
This pattern went together really easily, however there are quite a lot of fiddly steps. Gathering here, facings there, folding back facings and interfacing back there, cuffs, button holes, buttons, tucks, darts. You should have some skills up your (bishop) sleeve if you want to sew this one.
Originally, the plan was to finish this on the June 2019 long weekend. I had cut it out, done the darts/tucks to start... and then my partner injured his knee on the Saturday (high grade ACL tear).... I became a full time care giver as he couldn't walk, bend, turn, step over high things, bend knees, reach up, reach low, carry things, pour things, balance. He could walk on crutches but that was about it. No more sewing for me! I also had to call my mum for her birthday while we were waiting in the medical centre! Not the best way to delay a birthday phone call! Most of my day was taken up by helping him hobble off the soccer field, up stairs, into the car, out of the car, into the medical centre, onto a chair, out of a chair. The whole lot. It was a busy weekend but not in the way I anticipated.
Finally, a few weeks ago I stuck in and got it done. Then it sat on my dress form for a while to be admired. Next it moved to my wardrobe waiting for the perfect moment to come out and play. That day is today! It's a lot of fun to wear, it's pretty glamorous and enhances general swanning about. Which is what you do in bishop sleeves. Everyone knows that.
If this pattern is languishing in your stash waiting for time to sew... then just do it! The time you invest is worth it.
Made the straight size 16 - no alterations
Fabric is a rust coloured rayon from Spotlight bought specifically for this project
Self covered buttons from a Spotlight kit, 12mm
Hand stitched down the back facings and neck facing to keep it flat
No shoulder pads installed. I use my own shoulders.
1940s blouse: made by me - Simplicity 8736
Simplicity 2154 has been in my pattern stash for ages but I always found an excuse to not make it. It's a mini capsule wardrobe pattern, 1960s reproduction. There is the bow blouse, a knit cardi, woven jacket and pencil skirt.
While on a break from work for 2 weeks over Christmas/New Year, I was hit with some sewing inspiration. I didn't feel rushed or pressured, but interested. I ended up finishing three new items of clothing. Each one was cut out, sewn and finished in one day.
Even though this blouse is small, it takes up a lot of fabric! The bow, knot, collar, neck binding and arm binding are all cut on the bias which eats up fabric. Not entirely ideal. The blouse itself can basically be made from remnants. But not all the little extra bits. If you were clever, you could use one fabric for the blouse and top collar, something else for the bow and knot, and then standard single fold bias tape for the arm and neck edges. It has the potential to be a stash-busting project.
In my case, it was stash busting. I had an awkward amount of this pretty cheap and flimsy shirting poly left from a UFO project that is languishing in a box somewhere. It was meant to be.
I have ordered some red poplin with which I plan to make another....
IT'S FINISHED! My first proper fair isle pattern has been cast off, blocked and worn. I absolutely love it. There will no doubt more fair isle knitting in my future. Mostly because there is a lot of yarn left over from this project...
The pattern is knit in the round, bottom up until the shaping for the armsyce. The front neck/upper back are knitted straight in rows. Neck and armholes and picked up and knit afterwards in the roundy-round. Then time to weave in a buttload of ends. So many ends. All the ends! Took me two full nights of weaving to finish it.
Purl-ing the fair isle was a bit of a pain to get used to, but I eventually found a rhythm. I cannot say how pleased I am with this project. It's the first thing I've completed in my knitting goals for 2018 and I'm glad that it's worked so darn well!
Now, I can do plain knitting, cables, lace AND colourwork! Considering that 2019 will be my 10th year of knitting, I think I'm doing pretty well! Colourwork isn't scary, it just takes time, patience, a little more concentration... and natural light.
P.S: Note how well the red in the vest matches the red of my existing pants! Match made in heaven.
Ravelry notes here
Trousers: Hell Bunny
Scroll down to jump straight to the tutorial
Introducing.... The Gable Top by Jennifer Lauren Handmade. But with bishop sleeves! Shut up and take my money.
My first attempt at this hack was with an additional 3" to either side of the sleeve - so an extra 6" per sleeve. I made it in a draped black knit jersey fabric from Spotlight. The added 3" per side looked really drastic on the pattern, and then wasn't at all drastic in real life. It was a subtle bishop sleeve.
Nothing was changed in the sleeve cap, I didn't do the slash and spread method. I did the lazy version. To continue with the lazy theme, I made a casing and slid some elastic through. No messing around with cuffs.
On the second version I used a wine coloured, open drapey knit which was prone to unravelling - tedious. I added 9" per side of the sleeve. That's a whopping 18" of additional sleeve. This was much more successful. However... there could always be more sleeve drama. I want to drape myself around the house like a femme fatale.
Tutorial: Gable Top Hack - Bishop Sleeves
You will need
1. Trace the entire sleeve, including all pattern markings. Remember to add a note about the type of hack and what version of the sleeve it is. Sometimes it can even be a good idea to add a date.
2. From the bottom edge of your sleeve hem, measure out your desired additional width. 9" on both sides = 18 additional inches added into the sleeve fullness and the wrist. Draw a line from that point up to the beginning of the sleeve cap shaping. It's going to look crazy. Just go with it. The example below is 9" per side.
3. Directly below, add your casing. Mine was 2cm (and I folded in 5mm to hide the raw edge).
4. Add in the little wibbly-bit on the BACK of the sleeve. The back of the sleeve will be decided by the double notches on the sleeve cap. I just free-handed this wibbly-bit and it worked out in the end. My smaller black 3" per side didn't have the wibbly-bit and there wasn't an issue - the world kept turning.
5. Cut out your new sleeve pattern. Again, double triple check that it is clearly labelled and you've listed how large the addition is.
Cut 2 of your new sleeve pattern. Hooray for dramatic sleeves!
Note on asssembly:
Make Gable Top as usual. However, do not hem the sleeves before inserting them.
Set the sleeves in, sew the side seams and THEN do the elastic casing. Trust me, this is the easiest way.
Now, swan about in your beautiful new top with added drama and mystery. Let me know if you try the cheats version of the bishop sleeve!
Top: Gable Top b Jennifer Lauren Handmade
Boots: Sandler, circa 2004/2005
Hello and welcome to my MMMay18 week 1 wrap up. So far, the challenge has been pretty easy for me. Autumn is great time to move into knitwear, but skirts are still fine. It's a fairly wonderful time of the year. So far, I've not donated any me made clothing, but I did go through my fabric and yarn stash to move along small pieces or leftovers that I would never use. It feels lovely to let things go. I think quilters are in the best place to use smaller scraps.
Without further ado....
Day 1: Simplicity 3688 grey wool skirt. Op shop jacket. Ebay blouse.
Day 2: Gable top by Jennifer Lauren Handmade in a purple cotton spandex from Spotlight. Scottie brooch was a gift from Mum and Dad's travels in Scotland. Pants by Retrospec'd.
Day 3: Vogue 8811 (LOVE IT!) with Anita Carigan. Belt from eBay.
Day 4: New Look 6000 recently completed from a ponte from Spotlight.
Day 5: Green Salal cardigan with Hunter Green Cascade 220 superwash yarn. Buttons from Etsy. Blouse by Revival purchased through eBay. Pants are Collectif jeans. The large earrings are vintage resin things that I tuned into earrings myself!
Day 6: Wedding attire! Butterick 4919 full length dress made from a CDC from Spotlight. Rust coloured bolero bought from Myer when it was still called Grace Bros.
Day 7: Cosy Monday with 1940s Cabled Cardi in an acrylic 5ply.
Knitter. Home seamstress. Dance Teacher.